Blind Date

As soon as I sat down and slowed my breathing, heartbeat, and mind from the whirlwind 46-hour journey (COUNT EM: 46 HOURS) and took in The View To End All Views, I was sold on La Gomera. Didn’t take long. I don’t know that I believe in love-at-first-sight, but I am prone to… um.. throwing myself head over heels upon a good first impression.

I remember when I first found out that I’d be in Canarias, I began obsessively researching each island to create a ranking of where I’d like to be placed. Definitely not a great practice, given that it was completely out of my hands and I was probably just setting myself up for disappointment, but it passed the time until I got my carta de nombramiento. I read about each island’s quirks, crept through the streets on Google Earth, and followed the Instagram accounts associated with each. At one point, I came across one of the best sunset photos I’d ever seen, so beautiful that it stopped my scroll dead in its tracks. The location was Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera. The tiny, round, 14-mile diameter island slid into my #1 slot and stayed there as I read about its unique biomes and its strong connection to the traces of indigenous culture that escaped the fukú of Columbus. I’d like to say I thought my dream into existence, but I think I just got lucky. 

Photo by NASA's MODIS-AQUA satellite

Upon arrival, the bilingual coordinator of my school gave me the contact of a teacher, Elena, who could answer any questions I had that weekend. I asked her for a restaurant recommendation for an early dinner (apparently forgetting I was in Spain), and worked up my strength to walk across the valley to Playa de la Calera. The website for the restaurant she recommended said it opened at 6:00 pm, the sign on the door said 6:30 pm, and when I asked the hostess, she said it wasn’t until 7:00 pm. Okay! Knowing what I’ve learned now about Spanish dinner customs, I’m very lucky they’d take me that early regardless.

As I waited for 19:00, I wandered through the streets, going in shops and getting a feel for this specific part of the valley. The entirety of Valle Gran Rey is so small it would be considered no more than a town in the States, but there are distinct little sectors with their own names and features. As soon as I understood that, I was oriented. It was even easier than orienting at Bowdoin, which basically just required knowing where the Polar Bear statue was located. Definitely helps to have the ocean as a border. God help me in Madrid. 

I stopped by the main beach in town and planted my feet in black sand for the first time. I was so excited!!!!! Even long after the sun’s intensity had peaked for the day, the sand was hot on the bottoms of my feet. The water was cool (thank you North Atlantic gyre!!) but not cold (thank you, low-latitude sun!!), and the contrast of the white foam against the dark sand was so beautiful. 

Finally my time came, and I sat down to a meal of fried pork and vegetables. It was not a plato típico, but it was one of the best meals in town according to Elena. I was beyond famished at that point and eating at breakneck speed—I figure I probably looked like Eleven from Stranger Things when she walks out of the Upside Down and into Benny’s restaurant (the sole purpose of this reference is to make my brother happy). Going against Spanish custom, I asked for the check right away and walked home alongside the ocean as the sun set. The waves crashed against the smooth, round rocks that line much of the coast, producing an amplified sound and rhythm as it pushed them up and pulled them back. 

Predictably, I fell deeply and profoundly asleep that night for 11 hours straight. I woke up so dehydrated that my vision was blurred, which would’ve been terrifying if A.) this hadn’t happened to me before while traveling and B.) I hadn’t worked at an ophthalmologist’s office this summer (I love you The Eye MD’s!!!!). I chugged some water with electrolyte powder, put in some lubricating drops I scored at the office, and I was good to go. After having a photoshoot with my first Canarias papaya for a series on my instagram (please validate me @phoebelinnea22), I went out to explore again. 

With fresh eyes, my new home was even more beautiful. Every step showed me a slightly different angle of the cliffs, and every turn presented me with 10 photos I had to take. To get anywhere in a reasonable amount of time, I have to remind myself that I have 9 months to photograph all of these scenes. But some can’t wait. 

I’ve truly never lived somewhere that shows so well every day. It’s like I can’t take a bad photo. Having the anchor of these cliffs in every shot is something I could really get used to. I’ve been notorious for neglecting the land in favor of the sky in my shots, but these rocks refuse to step out of the spotlight. 

I walked over 15 miles my first three days on the island, getting my bearings and taking in the scenery. It’s still hard to believe I’m really here. And that it really is incredible and more than I expected. I knew things were going well when I was a little bit heartbroken over having to leave to go back to Madrid for Orientation. I’ve never been on a blind date, but it kind of feels like my friend J. William Fulbright just wingmanned me into a best-case scenario match. I have the sun, the sea, and the earth in one of its most spectacular forms. Checks all my boxes.